Double Cleansing: The Core Step of Korean Skincare, Backed by Science
Double cleansing is a two-step cleansing method that first removes oil-soluble residues with an oil or balm-type cleanser…
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Why Cleanse Twice?
Double cleansing is a two-step cleansing method that first removes oil-soluble residues with an oil or balm-type cleanser, followed by washing away water-soluble impurities with a foam or gel-type cleanser.
Impurities on the skin's surface are broadly classified into two types: makeup, sunscreen, and sebum are oil-soluble and do not dissolve in water, while sweat and dust are water-soluble. Using only a foam cleanser may not completely remove oil-soluble residues, and using only oil may leave water-soluble impurities behind. Double cleansing sequentially removes these two types of impurities based on their chemical compatibility.
Where Did Double Cleansing Originate?
The roots of double cleansing trace back to 14th-century Korea and Japan. Women and Japanese geishas of the time used natural oils, such as camellia oil, for their first cleanse to remove 'Oshiroi,' a thick traditional white powder makeup, followed by a second cleanse with rice bran or soybean powder. This is the prototype of modern double cleansing.
The turning point for modernization came in 1967. When Japanese makeup artist Shu Uemura launched the world's first commercial cleansing oil, 'Unmask,' the modern double cleansing method—dissolving makeup with oil and washing off residues with a foam cleanser—became firmly established. It later became the essential first step of the 10-step Korean skincare routine and spread to the global market alongside the K-Beauty wave. Western beauty media outlets such as Healthline and Garnier USA also introduce Korea and Japan as the countries of origin for double cleansing.
How Is Double Cleansing Perceived in the West?
In the past, it was common in the West to finish cleansing with a single product, such as cleansing water or milk. Recently, due to the influence of K-Beauty, the Korean-style double cleansing method using cleansing oil and foam cleanser sequentially has been spreading. The increase in frequent makeup use and waterproof sunscreen has led to the awareness that single cleansing often leaves residues in pores, causing breakouts.
However, Western skin experts emphasize that double cleansing is not essential for every skin type. There is also a preference for using milk cleanser alone on days with light makeup.
Is It Effective for All Skin Types?
Double cleansing is not suitable for all skin types. For dry and sensitive skin, repeated double cleansing can remove the protective oil barrier, weakening the skin barrier. Recently, dermatologists recommend single cleansing when only wearing sunscreen or light makeup. Double cleansing is recommended when wearing full makeup or using waterproof products.
For oily and combination skin, or for those who wear makeup and sunscreen daily, it can be an effective way to prevent clogged pores.